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FINE CUISINE : |
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Cassoulet
Some see it as a kind of victory: time wins its war over beans. That's how the myth goes, anyway. What they mean is, it's a kind of battle waged between the person who decides to cook a Cassoulet, and the beans themselves. Why? Well, you'd have thought that by drowning the beans in water overnight with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, you'd get the upper hand. Alas, you'd be wrong. In the morning, you strain them, and that's just the first battle over. Boil the beans for an hour, then the next fight begins. In an earthenware pot - purists use only this kind, ideally made in the Lauragais - you lay out your weapons: bacon rinds, the beans, carrots, onions, and Toulouse sausages, goose conserve (pre-browned in a frying pan), a hunk of good quality ham, etc. The list could go on as long as a telephone directory - everyone has his or her own "ideal version" of Cassoulet.
There is a lengthy debate on the time you need to cook a good Cassoulet. The problem, once again, are the beans - too short a time in the oven, and they are too floury and dry. The old adage "patience and time" is well heeded. Ten hours cooking time is not unusual. If you get it right, the beans melt on your tongue like a dream. Don't be scared of putting in plenty of garlic, it helps the digestion, and one last tip: a wine from Fronton makes the ideal accompaniment in the battle of the beans. Allow time for a decent siesta after your meal.
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Salted Liver
This Tarnais speciality is based on pork liver. To put it simply, salted liver is to a native of the Tarn, what the tea-soaked madeleine is to Marcel Proust. Read "In search of lost time and you'll understand. Anyway, salted liver makes many a Tarnais mouth water.
Ideally, in a heavy black frying pan, you cut the liver into small cubes and fry it lightly with radishes (sliced) and a dash of vinegar. This is known as Ali radishes. It's really salty, so prepare yourself for some fairly substantial re-hydration over the 24hours following your meal! The best charcuteries in the region have this product on their shelves, but they are rare. They'll cut you a few slices, with a secretive smile. So, keep your eyes open
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L'aillade
This is one of the more interesting local dishes which accompany a delicious "magret de canard". Forget this sauce if you are on a diet, and it's well known to make your breath smell like that of a Pyreneen Wildcat. That said - it is one of life's great culinary pleasures, and here's how you make it: in a pestle and mortar, crush nut kernels and several cloves of garlic. Add some nut oil, or, if you don't have any, then a pinch of curry powder in sunflower oil will do. Add salt to taste. Slices of duck dunked in this sauce are almost too delicious to be true. |
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